Thursday, 18 August 2016

Artist’s Statement


Artist’s Statement


Sam Ellis

Jewellery Designer


Currently 2nd Year BA (Hons) Three Dimensional Design at MMU.

Hand Crafted Jet Pendant with a Silver Chain, Approx 35mm x25mm x8mm.

£30.00 incl VAT plus postage & delivery



‘MMU has been the catalyst sending me on journey of creativity, inspiring my thoughts, painting a picture of the possibilities that can be achieved.’

Sam is currently attending the 2nd year Three Dimensional Design Course at Manchester Metropolitan University. His interests lies in working with reclaimed materials and is driven by taking a product and re inventing its colour, shape, function and creating a new life from old. His intention is to successfully complete his course at MMU and then create his own brand of jewellery made from natural, recycled materials, emphasizing the handmade, bespoke features of his product range.

Sam says: ‘My designs must reflect quality, ooze personality, and show beauty, creating that must have feeling. Less is more in the context of design, simplicity is the key.’

Wednesday, 17 August 2016

Brief


Brief

The brief for this project is to design a product suitable to sell via the MMU Originals On line site.

Through relevant research a design will be created, developed and tested gaining feedback regarding suitability for sale. I will explain my decision making process throughout the project and give a critical approach to the process and final designs. I will indicate future progression of the product.

The designs will focus on being simple, relatively easy to produce, sit within the low/middle end market, attaining a good quality finish, targeting a specific audience.
by sam ellis


Manchester Metropolitan Design Shows


Manchester Metropolitan Design Shows

Initially I thought it would be a good starting point to view and form an opinion regarding the work produced by the numerous students over the past 30 -40 years. Through the MMU Visual Resources albums, I studied the different shows, looking at exhibitions from fashion design to graphic design, focusing on the 3 D Design elements. By this research I was hoping to discover the mood and the feeling of the University and if dramatic changes or trends has taken place. It was an exercise in learning the ethos and pulse of this institution.







Looking at the shows from the 1960’s to present day it was apparent instantly that the designs were in a sense re inventing products, the shows displayed tables, chairs, ornaments, but the different eras showed how trends changed or adapt. The shape, size, style, colour changed, but ultimately a chair is a chair.  This is not a complaint or undermining the work, it is just an observation, but already has given me a lead on my project aim.

I really do like the idea of re invention or re use or may be re claim and I believe I can take this forward with a product that I design.

The exhibitions are inspiring and show well designed high quality products, fit for purpose, which is key factors that I need to consider.



                                                                                 
               

It was interesting to view the various shows and visualise how trends did change over time. I thought the 1960’s show gave the impression of well made and functional products, but also creating a cold feeling. The colours seemed dull and unimaginative, work man like in style.

In contrast the 1981 exhibition oozes warmth, using rich colours, simple in design using linear lines. In my opinion I do like the mood these pieces create, elegant, yet clean and simple.    
                 


The 1995 exhibition showed how the designs changed from clean lines and shapes to a more curves being involved in the designs. This an interesting change from linear to curves, with the curves giving a softer feel. I do like the idea of using curves within my design. The designs are simple and the tones light. The simple designs emphasizes that a product does not have to look complicated to be fantastic.

 



The 2007 exhibition takes the trends from 1995 and moves a step further in mixing curves and linear designs, keeping the light textures. This was my favourite show as it indicated that mixing shapes and lines helped create a more rounded product. Simplicity again showed as a key factor, but again chairs, tables ornaments were being designed, but to new trends and styles. Again I am feeling that re use/ re invent theme.



                                                                                              

                                                                                                                                                    

The 2010 exhibition did scream “Ikea”


Crisp, clean, light colours, simple and good designs, important key factors in delivering a good product.

 An excellent display and shows the contrast how trends and styles changed over the past 30 -40 years, but still following the golden rules of design, simple, functional and made to a high standard.







I have enjoyed this research and it as stimulated some good ideas. I know the designs I create would ideally be simple, combinations of curves and linear lines, clean and elegant, but functional and made to a high standard.

This has given me a broad idea which direction my project will take. I would like to develop the idea of re inventing or re using a product and potentially changing its function.

The next part of the process is to focus on some specifically designed products made by MMU students from the exhibitions, the intention being to stimulate my thoughts and help with the design process.

Manchester Metropolitan Design Show Products


Manchester Metropolitan Design Show Products





                                    

                                                                                                                   3D Design Show 1989


Having initially studied the design shows I thought it would be relevant to look in more detail at specific products. I have chosen random products that are not necessarily a family but the items were stunning and grabbed my attention.

Each product empathized simplicity and quality. My favourite design was the picture above from the 1992 show. The design and the curves look, modern, fresh and give a warm feeling, with the structure showing a brilliant combination of linear lines and curves.

The 1989 product opposite followed the same theme and shows how dynamic and refreshing an idea can be formulated and made into a product. The designs highlight to me that lines and curves can work together to produce a magical effect.

                                                                                                

                                                                                                  





                                                                                                                      3D Design Show 1983


This clock displayed at the 1983 3D Design exhibition indicates to me that simplicity in design and quality are key elements I need to learn from the research.  The clock is made to a high standard and the colours complement each other perfectly. The texture of the product creates a soft toned effect which promotes the profile of the deep red hands of the clock. A clever design feature is showing the clock face blank, giving a modern look.











                                                                                                                      3D Design Show 1982


This glass vase exhibited at the 3D Design show, 1982, just exudes class. This is style shown at its best. It is functional, looks modern, simple design and would suit any room environment.

The product is made to a high standard and quality and would command high a retail price.

Interestingly all the products I have been attracted to are from the 1980’s shows, but all are still today modern and relevant. These are key values in the heritage and development of the Manchester Metropolitan over the past years.



Through looking at these random products I have learnt key values that my product should follow.

The product should be a simple design, not complicated, as less is more. The product should be functional and made to a high quality.

Manchester Metropolitan Design Show Jewellery


Manchester Metropolitan Design Show Jewellery




 


                                                                                                      3D Design Show 1977         

Further to the varied products featured earlier, I was drawn to this jewellery from the 1976 and 1977 exhibitions. I was attracted by the simple, uncomplicated designs. The limited use of colour emphasized the design. The jewellery was made to an excellent standard and gave a modern feeling.


This research as focused my thoughts into designing and making jewellery. I will not necessarily make the product from metals, but would like to pursue the idea of making the jewellery by re inventing or re using materials.



The final jewellery designs must follow the key features I have discovered from the Manchester Metropolitan exhibition shows.

Simple design, using combinations of curves and linear lines, functional, modern and made to a high quality.

Jewellery Retailers


Jewellery Retailers

Having decided to design and make jewellery for this project, I thought it was relevant to visit and research jewellery retailers. I chose to review x2 extremes of the market: Boodles in Manchester aiming at a high end market and Munro House Gallery/Coffee shop in Leeds, aiming at a low end craft market.



Photograph taken by Sam Ellis 21/07/2016.

                                                Boodles

Visited 21/07/2016, Manchester City Centre.


(http://www.boodles.com/jewellery/necklaces.html)

Blossom Classic Rose Gold Pendant


In rose gold with diamonds

£2,100

*       Set with 0.14ct of round-brilliant cut diamonds

*       In 18ct rose gold

*       On an 18 inch trace chain

Pendant length: 26mm (approx.)



Boodles was founded in 1798 interestingly around the same time as Manchester Metropolitan University was founded and in a sense share the same heritage, in that they have continually re invented themselves and reflected the different trends over that period.

Boodles uses A and B rated diamonds, these being the highest quality, aiming at the high end market. The Rose Gold Pendant is made to a very high standard with no imperfections, retailing at £2,100.  The beauty of this piece of jewellery is that the shapes work well together and is polished to an extremely high quality. The product is bespoke and handmade, suiting a 25+ female audience.




Blossom Posy Diamond Pendant


In platinum with diamonds

£33,990

Set with 5.79ct of round-brilliant cut diamonds

*       In platinum

On 18 inch chain with diamond detail.



The Blossom Posy Diamond Pendant commands an extremely high price at £33,990, aiming at the very high end market. This pendant shouts out quality, is bespoke and handmade. The curves of the design create a magical effect, although in my opinion the design is “too busy”. I prefer more simple designs.



Having seen the jewellery made by Boodles, I do like the ethos of high quality products and bespoke, although the jewellery I design will be targeted at the low to middle market value, aiming at a more varied audience.

Rather than using precious metals or gemstones for the jewellery design, I am now more inclined to work with re used or reclaimed materials, giving a more natural look.

Munro House Gallery/Coffee Shop


Munro House Gallery/Coffee Shop

In contrast to Boodles I visited Munro House Gallery/Coffee Shop in Leeds, as the jewellery made was targeted at the low end handcrafted market and I thought this would give a good example of the extreme diverse ends to the jewellery market.



Photograph taken by Sam Ellis 23/07/2016

Munro House Gallery

Visited 21/07/2016 Leeds City Centre.

(http://www.gemsmith.co.uk)


This jewellery is made to a high standard and shows good quality similar to Boodles ethos, which shows how different in expensive materials can still have the same dramatic effect as premium gemstones, retailing at a fraction of the cost, £19.00.

The mix of materials is a wonderful idea, with the silver creating the value. The soft coloured material is very simple and effective. The pendants would be aimed 18 – 30 age female audience, although the design would have limited appeal to a mass market. It is not necessarily a piece of jewellery you would wear to an evening function, more of a casual daytime event.







The jewellery Knott necklace opposite is made by the same designer as the pendants and shows the designer as good design and technical skills. The design has been well thought out and works perfectly. The colours are fresh and create a warm mood, again aiming at an 18 -30 age female audience, retailing at £35.00.

The product targets the low end market and I believe its originality and quality suits this aim.





The visits to Boodles and Munro House Gallery have given me some important insights into the type of jewellery I will design. I have concluded, the design must be simple, made to a high quality using reclaimed materials and aimed at a low to middle value market, which reiterates my conclusions from my research at Manchester Metropolitan Design Shows.

I would like the jewellery to have a link to heritage, whether that is to the material used or the designs.   






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Pipe Jewellery


Pipe Jewellery

The idea of re using and reclaiming materials is very much my intention for this project. Taking a product that has a history and re inventing it into a new modern functional piece of jewellery is extremely exciting for me.

I have previously worked with broken clay pipes designing and making jewellery for sale, which as inspired me to develop the idea of using different materials in this manner.

 


                 


I had discovered the broken pipes during a visit to the Tate Modern Gallery, London, having walked along the beach of the River Thames, I stumbled across broken pieces of Victorian Clay Pipes scattered along the water’s edge.




The pipes originated from the 15th century onwards and were clay pipes that when they had been used was discarded into the river.

(All Pipe Jewellery designed and made by Sam Ellis)

The jewellery designed was simple and made to a good quality.

The pipes were cleaned, sorted into specific sizes and threaded and knotted onto leather. The leather cost £2.00 per 5 metre roll and the pipes were free, excluding the time to make, which for simple designs was approx 15mins, a bracelet sold for £12.00, which I sold x15 to x20 by recommendation.








As the photographs shows, I designed and made different bracelets and necklaces, keeping to the concept of making the designs simple, but looking modern and to a high quality.

The intention with my current project is to utilise what I have learnt from the Manchester Metropolitan Design Shows research, visiting the different sales retailers and the experience I gained working with the pipe jewellery to make jewellery from a re useable/ reclaimed material.

During a recent visit to the East Coast I found the ideal material to work with. It showed history, was able to be reclaimed and could be worked into making simple, bespoke jewellery.

The material was Whitby Jet, which I found on the beaches of Robin Hoods Bay. I loved the connection to the pipe jewellery, as I was reclaiming the jet and could take the product in its different sizes, shapes and make stunning jewellery.

The black colour of the jet shouted out quality and I was excited to learn how to work with this material.

Having worked with clay pipes, I thought it was important to choose a different material such as Whitby jet to work with to enhance my design and make skills.  

What is Whitby Jet


What is Whitby Jet





                                                                                            (http://whamond.com/pages/what-is-whitby-jet)

Jet is a type of lignite, a precursor to coal, and considered to be a minor gemstone. Jet is not a true mineral, but rather a mineraloid as it has an organic origin, derived from decaying wood under extreme pressure. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jet_(lignite))

It is the unlikiest gemstone as it is really fossilised wood. It can be found in many countries such as China and the USA, but the finest quality is found in the north east coast of Yorkshire.


It is found in seams of shale in the cliff face or washed up on the beach. The pieces I found are small but it is still possible to create pieces of jewellery. The picture above shows a piece of jet found x150 years ago by the jewelleres “W.Hamond”, which is still making and selling Whitby Jet jewellery today. Another interesting fact to add to the theme of my project of hertiage and reinvention. Obviously today you would be extremely lucky to find pieces this large. It is suggested the piece of jet in the picture would have taken 180 million years to make, and is a staggering 21ft in length. (http://whamond.com/pages/what-is-whitby-jet).







Characteristics of Whitby Jet


Characteristics of Whitby Jet



Photograph taken by Sam Ellis 25/07/2016

The above photograph shows the collection of Whitby Jet I collected from the beach at Robin Hoods Bay, North East Yorkshire; it shows the varying sizes and shapes that can be found and used to create the jewellery.

The colour is unique, with its blackness being so intense, which gives it the feeling of high quality. It is smooth and light weight which makes it ideal to be worn in comfort as jewellery. It can be polished to a high intensity, even to be used as mirror.

The difficulty with Whitby Jet is that it breaks very easily. It is relatively easy to manipulate but can easily shatter. The identification of the jet on the beach can be difficult, as the piece found quite often is found to be coal. The test to confirm the jet is genuine is by rubbing it against a piece of stone and if genuine will leave a chocolate brown streak.

Jet was extremely popular in the Victorian era and loved by Queen Victoria. Today it suits an older audience and is seen as a niche market product. I do find this interesting and challenging, as I intend to create simple, modern designs which would aim more at the 25+ market.

Whitby Jet Jewellery


Whitby Jet Jewellery

                   


                          http://www.whitbyjet.co.uk/catalogue/0007-victorian-style.html

                                  http://www.whitby-jet-jewellery.com/?gclid=CLfGkpm0mM4CFWgo0wodfA0LCw



I have researched Whitby Jet jewellery and was delighted with the high quality that can be achieved with the jet.

Silver chains compliment the black tones of the jet. The heart pendant above shows fine craftsmanship and intricate detail, however this seems a too “busy” design for me, whereas the triangle pendant opposite looks modern and perfect, with the silver border emphasising the jet stone. This is probably my favourite design and oozes quality, with the finish of the jet being almost mirror like.

 



                                                                           http://www.whitby-jet-jewellery.com/whitby-jet-

pendants

The Jet Cabochon Pendant opposite shows how the effect of curves within the design can influence and promote the jet. The silver surrounding the jet helps focus the eye towards of the centre piece of the design. The curves give a soft and gentle feel to the piece of jewellery. Again a modern design would suit a younger audience.

The jewellery looks excellent quality, made to a very high standard, as the previous example, they are aimed at a middle price range £50.00 - £80.00, probably slightly higher than my target price.






The Butterfly Pendant shows a well thought out design, made to a high standard.

It is a feel good piece of jewellery and I like how the jet becomes the body of the butterfly, which again helps emphasize the jets quality.

Within a design I believe it is important to have a central focus point. The product is handmade as are all the other pieces and shows true craftsmanship.




The Pendant opposite shows less quality, which probably reflects the lower retail price. The design would suit a younger audience, probably 25+ and is a quite modern design. The pendant gives a warm mood and I do like how the curves follow the same direction.

It is a very interesting piece of jewellery, simple in design but looks quite chic.







This research has been very enlightening; it has given me a good understanding regarding the complexity of the design and how the design can influence the target audience. It has shown target retail prices and what you “get for your money”. It has emphasized that silver compliments the Whitby Jet, but I would not design complicated designs as the Heart Pendant.

Simple design, to a high quality is the aim.

Drawings and Ideas











Monday, 15 August 2016

Initial Designs – Jet Jewellery


Initial Designs – Jet Jewellery



Photographs taken by Sam Ellis 31/07/2016

Photographs show Initial designs made by Sam Ellis.

Through the process of the research I decided to design and make Whitby Jet Jewellery.

The research emphasized that the designs would be simple, made to a high standard and be saleable.  Using the reclaimed/ reused jet was of interest to me having previously made jewellery from reclaimed broken clay pipes and I was excited to work with a new material. The Jet followed the theme of heritage as it is millions of years old and as its own story to tell.

I love the idea of being able to take something that is old and unused and create something modern and functional. This project is a challenge as I am unsure at this stage how the jet will manipulate and if I can form a finished piece of jewellery.

Initially the designs I made were very simple and the designs to a great extent followed the shape of the piece of jet chosen to work with, as you can see from the photographs.

Choosing the ideal piece of jet to work with was important as the finished piece had to be a functional size.

The target audience age group is female, 25+, pitching the sales price £15.00 - £30.00 dependent on size and design of the jet, attempting to sell the jewellery to a younger market.

The finished product floats between being handmade bespoke and low batch production, as similar shapes can be reproduced but the jet will have slightly different characteristics from piece to piece.



Initial Designs – Materials


Initial Designs – Materials




Photographs taken by Sam Ellis 31/07/2016

The material chosen to use for the designs was Whitby Jet.

I decided to use this material as it followed the theme of reclaiming/ re using materials and shows character, history and can produce; beautiful, warm, simple, modern designs, that suggests high quality.

The jet was sourced from the beaches at Robin Hoods Bay, North East Yorkshire. I searched the beach shortly after high tide for several days whilst visiting the village, collecting a large amount of jet. The pieces of jet varied in size from 5mm to 30mm, all unusual shapes and sizes. Identification of the jet was important, as pieces of coal on the beach can be misinterpreted for jet. The test to authenticate the jet is to rub the piece against a stone and jet should produce a brown streak.

The jet material used to make my designs is ultimately free; albeit there is time taken to find the jet, which will be taken into account in the final pricing structure, but to have part of your materials free is an important factor in increasing your profit margins. If you are willing to take time to find the jet, it is readily available, and can collect a large amount after a few hours searching.


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